Convent Santo Desierto del Carmen

The Santo Desierto del Carmen, located in the municipality of Tenancingo, Estado

de México, is one of the most significant spiritual and architectural landmarks

of the colonial era in Mexico. It is a monastery of the Discalced Carmelites

(Carmelitas Descalzos) and sits atop the mountain of Nixcongo.

Here is a history of this remarkable place:

1. The Meaning of "Desierto" (Desert)

To understand its history, one must understand the name. In the tradition of the

Discalced Carmelites, a "Desert" does not refer to a sandy, arid landscape.

Instead, it refers to a remote, solitary place—usually a forest or

mountain—where monks can live in absolute silence, prayer, and penance, away

from the distractions of society.

2. The Move from Mexico City

Before the convent in Tenancingo existed, the Carmelites had their primary

"desert" retreat at the Desierto de los Leones (now a famous park in Mexico

City).

By the late 18th century, the Desierto de los Leones had become problematic for

the monks. The growth of Mexico City meant that the area was becoming too noisy

and frequented by travelers. The monks felt their vow of silence was being

compromised. In 1790, they decided to look for a more isolated location and

chose the Nixcongo mountain in Tenancingo.

3. Construction and Architecture (1790–1801)

The construction of the new monastery began in 1797 and was completed in 1801.

The architecture is strictly Neoclassical, reflecting the style of the late

Spanish colonial period. Unlike the ornate Baroque style common in Mexico, the

Desierto del Carmen is characterized by its sobriety, clean lines, and imposing

proportions. The design is often attributed to the school of the famous

architect Manuel Tolsá.

The complex was designed to be a "sacred city" in miniature, featuring:

  - A main church with a magnificent dome.

  - A cloister for the monks.

  - A library (which once held an enormous collection of theological texts).

  - Ten small hermitages (ermitas) scattered throughout the surrounding forest

    for monks who wished to live in total isolation for periods of time.

4. The 19th Century and the Reform Laws

The monastery faced a period of decline and uncertainty during the mid-19th

century. Following the Reform Laws (Leyes de Reforma) enacted by Benito Juárez,

many religious properties were nationalized or closed.

The Carmelites were forced to abandon the monastery for several years. During

this time, the building suffered from neglect, and many of its artistic

treasures and books were lost or moved to other institutions. However, the order

eventually regained possession of the site in the early 20th century.

5. National Park Status

In 1942, the surrounding area (approximately 529 hectares of forest) was

declared the Desierto del Carmen National Park. This was done to protect the

beautiful cedar and pine forests that provide the "convent in the clouds" with

its mystical atmosphere.

6. The "Balcón del Diablo" (Devil’s Balcony)

One of the most famous historical spots within the grounds is a viewpoint called

the Balcón del Diablo. From this cliffside, visitors can see the vast valley of

Tenancingo and Malinalco. Legend says the name comes from the monks’ belief that

the stunning beauty of the view was a temptation of the senses that could

distract them from their spiritual duties.

7. The Convent Today

Today, the Santo Desierto del Carmen remains a functioning monastery. It serves

as:

  - A House of Retreat: People still visit for silent retreats.

  - A Tourist Site: Visitors come to see the "Christ of the Seven Words," the

    impressive Neoclassical altars, and the "Camino de las Ermitas" (Way of the

    Hermitages).

  - Culinary Tradition: The area is famous for the local "Pan del Desierto"

    (Desert Bread) and regional sweets sold by locals near the entrance.

The site remains a rare example of a place where history, nature, and

deep-rooted religious tradition have remained largely unchanged for over 200

years.